Why New Build Maintenance Is Different
New build homes have specific maintenance considerations that do not apply to older properties.
Key Differences
| Factor | New Build | Older Property |
| Drying-out period | 9-12 months of excess moisture evaporating from construction materials | Not applicable |
| Settlement | Active for first 2-3 years — causes hairline cracks and movement | Already settled (unless subsidence issues) |
| Ventilation systems | Often MVHR or MEV requiring filter changes and maintenance | Usually natural ventilation (no maintenance) |
| Warranty protection | 10-year warranty that requires you to maintain the property | No structural warranty (unless recently renovated) |
| Decorating | Should wait 12+ months before first redecoration to allow drying | Decorate whenever you want |
| Heating systems | Modern condensing boilers or heat pumps — specific service requirements | Varies widely |
| Energy efficiency | Built to Part L 2021 or later — airtight construction requires proper ventilation management | Usually less airtight, more forgiving of ventilation mistakes |
| External works | May still be ongoing (roads, landscaping, shared areas) | Established and fully adopted |
The First Year: Month-by-Month Guide
Your first year is the most important for establishing good maintenance habits and managing the drying-out process.
Month 1: Moving In
| Task | Why | How |
| Photograph every room | Baseline record for snagging and warranty claims | Photograph walls, floors, ceilings, windows, external areas |
| Take meter readings | Avoid being charged for construction-period usage | Record gas, electricity, and water meters. Submit to providers |
| Learn your systems | Prevent misuse that causes problems | Read the homeowner manual. Understand boiler, MVHR, thermostat, consumer unit, stopcock |
| Set MVHR to correct mode | Essential for managing moisture during drying-out | Check it is running 24/7. Do not turn it off. Boost mode after cooking and showering |
| Open trickle vents | Additional ventilation during drying-out period | All window trickle vents should be open, especially in bedrooms |
| Register warranty | Ensures your warranty cover is active | Complete any warranty registration forms the developer has provided |
| Register appliance warranties | Separate from building warranty — needed for appliance claims | Register boiler, oven, hob, dishwasher etc. with manufacturers |
Months 2-3: Settling In
| Task | Why | How |
| Monitor condensation | Excessive condensation during drying-out can cause mould | Wipe windows daily if condensation appears. Ensure MVHR is running. Keep furniture 50mm from external walls |
| Keep heating on low | Helps the building dry out evenly — even in mild weather | Maintain a minimum 15°C throughout the property. Avoid big temperature swings |
| Do not seal cracks yet | Cracks will continue appearing as building dries. Filling now wastes effort | Note and photograph cracks for snagging report, but do not fill or paint over them |
| Build your snagging list | Defects appear over time as you use the property | Add items as you find them. Submit to developer when you have a reasonable batch |
| Test all systems during different weather | Some issues only appear in rain, cold, or wind | Check for draughts, water ingress, gutter overflow during storms |
Months 4-6: First Seasonal Changes
| Task | Why | How |
| Clean MVHR filters (first time) | Filters collect construction dust — may need early replacement | Locate MVHR unit (usually loft or utility cupboard). Remove and clean or replace filters per manufacturer's instructions |
| Check external drainage | First significant rainfall may reveal drainage issues | During heavy rain, check gullies, downpipes, and manholes for overflow or blockage |
| Inspect garden for settlement | Backfilled trenches for utilities often sink as soil compacts | Look for sunken areas near the house, along paths, and around manholes |
| Service boiler (if approaching 12 months since commissioning) | Annual service required to maintain boiler warranty | Book a Gas Safe registered engineer. Keep the certificate |
| Prepare for developer 6-month review (if offered) | Opportunity to get settlement-related items fixed | Compile your running snagging list with photographs |
Months 7-12: Drying-Out Completes
| Task | Why | How |
| Reassess cracks | Most settlement cracking should have stabilised by 9-12 months | Compare with earlier photographs. If cracks are stable, they can be filled when redecorating. If still growing, report to developer |
| Plan first redecoration | Building should be sufficiently dry to redecorate after 12 months | Fill hairline cracks, apply flexible filler at skirting/architrave gaps, repaint |
| Clean MVHR filters (second time) | Regular filter maintenance now on 3-6 month cycle | Clean or replace as per schedule |
| Check window seals | First year of UV exposure and temperature cycling can degrade seals | Look for cracking or gaps in external mastic seals around windows and doors |
| Inspect roof from ground | First winter storm season may have shifted tiles | Use binoculars to check for slipped or cracked tiles, damaged ridge |
| Prepare for 12-month review visit | Last scheduled developer visit — get everything addressed | Comprehensive list of all outstanding items including settlement cracks |
Year-by-Year Maintenance Schedule
After the first year, maintenance settles into a regular pattern. Here is what to do each year.
Year 2
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
| Annual boiler service | Once per year | Gas Safe registered engineer. Keep the certificate — essential for warranty |
| MVHR filter change | Every 3-6 months | Now on regular schedule. Dirty filters reduce efficiency and air quality |
| Bleed radiators | Start of heating season | Air enters the system; bleeding ensures even heat distribution |
| Check silicone seals | Annually | Around baths, showers, kitchen sinks, windows. Replace if cracking or peeling |
| Clean gutters | Autumn (after leaf fall) | Prevents overflow and water damage. Check downpipe connections |
| Final snagging reports before 2-year warranty expires | One-off | Submit all remaining defect reports before the 2-year builder period ends |
| Test smoke and CO alarms | Monthly | Press test button. Replace batteries if needed (many new builds have sealed units with 10-year batteries) |
Important: the 2-year builder warranty period expires at the end of year 2. Any defects not reported before this date may not be covered (structural defects remain covered until year 10). See our after-sales support guide for details.
Years 3-5
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
| Annual boiler service | Yearly | Continue throughout boiler life |
| MVHR filter change and duct inspection | Filters every 3-6 months; ducts every 3-5 years | At year 3-5, consider professional duct cleaning |
| External redecoration (if timber elements) | Every 3-5 years | Fascias, soffits, window frames if timber. Many new builds use uPVC (maintenance-free) |
| Check pointing and render | Annually (visual) | Look for cracked mortar joints, damaged render, gaps at window reveals |
| Reapply sealant around external openings | Every 3-5 years | Mastic around windows, doors, and where different materials meet |
| Service any mechanical items | As per manufacturer | Garage door mechanisms, electric gates, door entry systems |
| Check flat roof areas (if applicable) | Annually | Look for ponding water, splits, or debris on flat roof sections (dormers, porches, extensions) |
| Inspect loft insulation | Every 3-5 years | Check it has not been disturbed, displaced, or compressed |
Years 5-10
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
| Everything from years 3-5 | Continues | Boiler service, MVHR, gutters, external checks |
| Boiler replacement planning | Year 8-10 | Modern combi boilers typically last 10-15 years. Start budgeting for replacement |
| Electrical safety check | Every 5-10 years recommended | Not legally required for homeowners, but recommended. EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) |
| Interior redecoration | Every 5-7 years | Full interior repaint, refreshing bathrooms and kitchens |
| Replace silicone sealants throughout | Every 5-7 years | Kitchen, bathrooms, shower enclosures, windows |
| Driveway maintenance | Every 5-10 years | Block paving: re-sand joints, replace damaged blocks. Tarmac: apply sealant. Concrete: repair cracks |
| Fence and boundary maintenance | Every 3-5 years | Treat timber fences, check posts for rot at ground level, replace damaged panels |
| Check structural warranty expiry | Year 9-10 | Report any structural concerns before your 10-year warranty expires |
Seasonal Maintenance Checklists
Spring Checklist
| Task | Detail |
| Inspect roof from ground level | Check for winter storm damage — slipped tiles, damaged ridge, loose flashing |
| Clear gutters and downpipes | Remove any debris accumulated over winter |
| Check external render and brickwork | Frost damage can cause cracking — look for spalling bricks or cracked render |
| Inspect external timber | Fascias, fences, sheds — treat or repair as needed |
| Service lawnmower and garden tools | Ready for the growing season |
| Check air conditioning / cooling (if fitted) | Clean filters, test operation before summer |
| Open windows and ventilate thoroughly | Especially if the house has been sealed up over winter |
| Check external taps and irrigation | Winter frost may have caused damage to exposed pipework |
Summer Checklist
| Task | Detail |
| Inspect and treat timber decking | Sand if needed, apply decking oil or stain |
| Check external sealants and mastic | UV exposure degrades sealant — replace any that has cracked or shrunk |
| Service air conditioning (if fitted) | Clean or replace filters, check refrigerant levels |
| Touch up external paintwork | Warm dry weather is ideal for external painting |
| Check paths and drives for weed growth | Weed killer in joints, re-sand block paving if needed |
| Ensure adequate ventilation | Even in hot weather, keep MVHR running — do not switch it off |
Autumn Checklist
| Task | Detail |
| Clean gutters and downpipes | Most important gutter clean of the year — leaf fall blocks drainage |
| Check roof from ground level | Before winter storms — ensure tiles are secure, flashing intact |
| Bleed radiators | Remove trapped air before the heating season starts |
| Test heating system | Run the heating before you need it — identify problems before cold weather |
| Book annual boiler service | Best done in autumn before peak winter demand for engineers |
| Check MVHR filters | Replace or clean before winter when the house is sealed up more |
| Lag exposed pipework | Pipes in garages, lofts, and external locations — protect from freezing |
| Check smoke and CO alarm batteries | Autumn clock change is a good reminder to test all alarms |
| Clear leaves from paths and drains | Prevents slippery surfaces and blocked drainage |
Winter Checklist
| Task | Detail |
| Keep heating on at least 15°C | Even when away — prevents frozen pipes and excessive condensation |
| Monitor for condensation | Wipe windows, ensure trickle vents open, run MVHR on boost after showers |
| Know your stopcock location | If pipes freeze and burst, you need to shut off water immediately |
| Clear snow and ice from paths | You may be liable if someone slips on your property |
| Check loft for signs of condensation | If loft insulation is displaced or ventilation blocked, condensation can form on roof timbers |
| Do not block radiators | Furniture against radiators reduces efficiency and can cause heat damage |
| Open internal doors during the day | Helps heat circulate evenly and prevents cold spots |
MVHR System Maintenance
Most new build homes built to Part L 2021 or later have a Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR) system. This is not optional ventilation — it is a core building system that must run 24/7 to maintain air quality and control moisture.
How MVHR Works
An MVHR unit extracts stale, moist air from wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom, utility) and supplies fresh, filtered air to living rooms and bedrooms. A heat exchanger recovers up to 90% of the heat from the outgoing air and transfers it to the incoming fresh air, reducing heating costs.
MVHR Maintenance Schedule
| Task | Frequency | How |
| Clean or replace filters | Every 3-6 months (more often in first year) | Access the MVHR unit, remove filters, vacuum or replace. Use manufacturer-specified replacement filters |
| Clean supply and extract valves | Every 6 months | Wipe the ceiling-mounted valves in each room. Dust and grease build up and reduce airflow |
| Check condensate drain | Every 6 months | The unit produces condensate — ensure the drain pipe is not blocked |
| Professional ductwork cleaning | Every 3-5 years | A specialist company cleans the duct system. Particularly important if you have pets or allergies |
| Full system service | Every 3-5 years | Professional check of fans, heat exchanger, controls, and airflow rates |
Common MVHR Mistakes
| Mistake | Why It Is a Problem | What to Do Instead |
| Turning the system off | In an airtight new build, you will get condensation, mould, and poor air quality within days | Never turn MVHR off. It is designed to run continuously at low speed |
| Blocking vents with furniture or curtains | Disrupts airflow and creates dead zones where moisture accumulates | Keep all supply and extract vents clear and accessible |
| Never changing filters | Clogged filters reduce airflow, increase energy use, and recirculate pollutants | Change filters every 3-6 months without fail |
| Opening all windows instead | Bypasses the heat recovery, wastes energy, and can cause uncontrolled draughts | Use windows for occasional purge ventilation, but rely on MVHR for day-to-day |
| Using the wrong replacement filters | Incorrect filters may not fit properly or may restrict airflow | Use the manufacturer's specified filter type and grade |
Boiler and Heating Maintenance
Annual Boiler Service
| Aspect | Detail |
| Who should do it | Gas Safe registered engineer (or OFTEC for oil boilers) |
| When | Annually — ideally in September/October before winter |
| Cost | Typically £80-£120 |
| What it includes | Visual inspection, combustion analysis, flue check, controls test, pressure check |
| Why it matters | Maintains manufacturer's warranty (most require annual service). Safety check. Identifies problems before failure |
| Keep the certificate | Essential for warranty claims. Also needed when selling the property |
Underfloor Heating (If Fitted)
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
| Check manifold for leaks | Monthly (visual) | The manifold is where all the UFH pipes connect — look for drips |
| Repressure the system if needed | As required | If pressure drops, it may need topping up (similar to a sealed radiator system) |
| Do not cover with thick underlay/rugs | Ongoing | Heavy rugs or thick underlay insulate the floor from the room, reducing efficiency and potentially overheating the slab |
| Professional service | Every 5 years | Full system check, flow rates, pump operation |
Heat Pumps (If Fitted)
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
| Keep outdoor unit clear | Ongoing | Remove leaves, debris, and snow from around the air source heat pump unit. Maintain 300mm clearance |
| Clean filters | Every 3-6 months | Air source heat pumps have filters that need regular cleaning |
| Annual professional service | Yearly | F-gas qualified engineer checks refrigerant levels, electrical connections, and performance |
| Check defrost cycle in winter | During cold spells | Heat pumps defrost automatically — but check the unit is not sitting in standing water or ice |
Maintaining Your Warranty
Your NHBC, Premier, or LABC warranty requires you to maintain the property to a reasonable standard. Failure to maintain can give the warranty provider grounds to reduce or reject claims.
Maintenance Required by Warranty
| Requirement | What It Means | Consequence of Not Doing It |
| Maintain external decorations | Repaint or treat external timber within manufacturer's recommended intervals | If timber rots due to lack of treatment, warranty claim for related damage may be reduced or rejected |
| Keep gutters and drains clear | Regular cleaning to prevent overflow and water damage | Water damage caused by blocked gutters is maintenance failure, not a building defect |
| Maintain heating system | Annual boiler service, system checks | Boiler failure due to lack of service is not a warranty claim |
| Manage ventilation | Keep MVHR running, change filters, maintain trickle vents | Mould caused by switching off ventilation is a lifestyle issue, not a building defect |
| Report defects promptly | Do not let minor issues become major problems through neglect | Late reporting can complicate claims and allow damage to worsen |
| Do not make unauthorised modifications | Alterations that affect structure, weatherproofing, or safety | Modifications without proper approval can void warranty cover for affected areas |
For full details on warranty claims and what happens if a claim is disputed, see our after-sales support guide.
Common New Build Issues and Prevention
Condensation and Mould
| Prevention Method | Detail |
| Run MVHR 24/7 | Never switch off. Use boost mode after cooking and bathing |
| Open trickle vents | Keep trickle vents on all windows open, especially during the first year |
| Use extractor fans | Run kitchen and bathroom fans when cooking or showering and for 15 minutes after |
| Do not dry clothes on radiators | Releases significant moisture. Use a vented tumble dryer or dry outside |
| Keep furniture from external walls | Maintain 50mm gap between furniture and external walls to allow air circulation |
| Wipe down windows | Particularly in bedrooms — condensation on glass should be wiped each morning during the first winter |
| Keep consistent temperature | Avoid big temperature swings — maintain at least 15°C throughout |
Blocked Drains
| Prevention Method | Detail |
| Do not put fat/oil down kitchen sinks | Solidifies in pipes and causes blockages. Dispose of oil in containers in household waste |
| Use drain guards | Catch hair and debris before it enters the waste pipe |
| Do not flush non-flushable items | Only flush toilet paper and human waste. No wipes, cotton buds, or sanitary products |
| Pour boiling water down sinks monthly | Helps dissolve minor build-up in waste pipes |
| Keep external gullies clear | Leaves and debris block gullies — check monthly and after storms |
Frozen Pipes
| Prevention Method | Detail |
| Lag exposed pipes | Pipes in garages, lofts, and external locations must be insulated |
| Keep heating on when away | Minimum 15°C. Do not turn heating off completely during winter, even when on holiday |
| Know your stopcock location | If a pipe does burst, you need to shut off water immediately to limit damage |
| Open loft hatch in extreme cold | Allows warm air to reach loft pipes (if your loft is not fully heated) |
Maintenance Budget Guide
A reasonable maintenance budget helps avoid financial surprises.
Annual Maintenance Costs
| Item | Estimated Annual Cost | Notes |
| Boiler service | £80-£120 | Essential annual cost |
| MVHR filters | £30-£80 | 2-4 replacement filters per year |
| Gutter cleaning | £60-£150 | If you cannot do it yourself. Once or twice per year |
| Smoke / CO alarm batteries | £10-£30 | Many modern alarms have sealed 10-year batteries |
| General supplies | £50-£100 | Sealant, filler, paint touch-ups, cleaning products |
| Total typical annual cost | £230-£480 | For a well-maintained new build |
Periodic Larger Costs
| Item | Estimated Cost | Frequency |
| Exterior repainting (if timber elements) | £500-£2,000 | Every 3-5 years |
| Interior redecoration (full house) | £1,500-£5,000 (DIY) or £3,000-£10,000+ (professional) | Every 5-7 years |
| Boiler replacement | £2,500-£4,500 | Every 10-15 years |
| MVHR duct cleaning | £200-£400 | Every 3-5 years |
| Electrical safety check (EICR) | £150-£300 | Every 5-10 years |
| Driveway maintenance | £200-£1,000 | Every 5-10 years |
| Fence replacement (full boundary) | £500-£3,000 | Every 10-15 years |
A common rule of thumb is to budget 1% of your property's value per year for maintenance and repairs. For a £350,000 new build, that is £3,500 per year — more than enough for a new property, but it builds a reserve for larger items.
For a comprehensive guide to all costs associated with buying and settling into a new build, see our moving costs guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I redecorate my new build?
Wait at least 12 months after moving in. The building needs to dry out, and hairline cracks will continue appearing during the first year. Painting or wallpapering too early means you will likely need to redo it when new cracks appear. After 12 months, fill cracks with flexible filler (not rigid filler), then paint.
Should I turn my MVHR system off in summer?
No. MVHR should run 24/7 throughout the year. In summer, you can supplement with open windows, but the MVHR provides continuous filtered ventilation and removes moisture from bathrooms and kitchens regardless of the season. Turning it off leads to stale air and moisture problems.
Can I hang pictures and shelves on my new build walls?
Yes, but be aware that many internal walls in new builds are timber-framed with plasterboard. Use appropriate fixings (plasterboard anchors, spring toggles) rather than just screws into plasterboard. For heavy items (TVs, heavy shelves), fix into the timber studs behind the plasterboard — use a stud finder to locate them.
Do I need to oil or treat my kitchen worktops?
Only if they are solid timber worktops. Laminate, quartz, and granite worktops do not need oiling. Solid timber worktops should be oiled with food-safe oil (like Danish oil or mineral oil) every 3-6 months, or when the surface starts looking dry.
Is it normal for my new build to creak?
Yes. New builds creak, pop, and make settling noises, particularly in the first year. Timber expands and contracts with temperature and moisture changes, and the building is literally settling into its foundations. This is normal and not a sign of structural problems. If creaking is accompanied by visible structural cracking or movement, report it.
What happens if I do not maintain my home and need to make a warranty claim?
The warranty provider can reduce or reject claims if damage results from lack of maintenance. For example, if your gutters have not been cleaned and water overflow damages the exterior wall, the resulting damp would be classed as a maintenance failure, not a building defect. Keep records of maintenance carried out.